Xrayted

So, the results are in. I’ve had a wee look at the contact-prints I made last night and they look OK, a very contrasty look.

There’s little tonal variation between light and dark. One thing to note though, I scanned these prints in a scanner that has very limited software which means no de-screening options. They really picked up all that slight newsprint like moire that comes with large iPhone prints.

Using this approach gives you an interesting unusual look, it didn’t help that I used fairly contrasty images to start with. I could pull up the original RAW file, flatten it out and print that onto the xray sheet which I’ll try next time.

I could make this a post on why not to scan using poor quality scanners/software, especially with this next scan.

It doesn’t look that bad in person.
 

Moving On
Anyway, I went on to contact print the two sheets I made from slide film but these guys were just as contrasty as the iPhone photos

With this next one I tried to have longer exposures with less light and a bit of dodging but it’s still a very high contrast image.

If I try this again with the slide film I might try to add more yellow to see if that reduces the contrast on the xray film.

Finally, as I had the the chemicals ready I tried to make a print from the roll of f’d up expired 1959 FP3 film I had but it wasn’t to be …

I’ll leave you with a quick tip on how to be a master darkroom printer!


 

le fin

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4 thoughts on “Xrayted

  1. Hi Simon, the xray film typically needs a very gentle development. I use it alot and don’t have a problem with contrast. The trick is to develop in rodinal or equivalent at a dilution of 1:100 for only 6 minutes. Another trick is glass panes in the developing trays to avoid scratches. Turn the sheet every 30 secs during development…this is all the agitation needed. I’m jealous of your xray stock! Keep up the experiments. James.

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    1. Hi James.

      My previous experiments with XRay were with Rodinal 1+50 and the tonal range was pretty good so that was my next port of call. 1+100 was said to be a good dilution from a number of people so I’ll definitely be going there (1+50 was a tad quick!).

      Using a multigrade developer was quite literally a reflex from getting my trays out!

      I’d heard using glass plates would reduce scratched so once I move house and have a permanent darkroom I’ll be stocking up properly. I’ve got 5×4 dark slides for plates so I’ve got a long list of processes I’d love to experiment with but not until I have space to play in.

      Thanks for your comments, I really appreciate it.

      Si

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  2. Really great stuff Si! Why don’t you try pre-flashing the X-Ray film!? That works to reduce the contrast with paper so there’s no reason why it won’t work with film too.

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    1. Actually, I didn’t think to … I’m sure I could flash it without burning the ISO100 film too much. I’ll give that a try next time as well. Good idea James, keep the suggestions coming!

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