Black and White Colour

I’ve developed colour films in black and white chemistry before especially expired C22 films with no access to that nearly extinct chemistry but I wondered if, with cheap colour films from Poundland around the corner, I might now have a cheap alternative B&W film stock.

My first run with the Poundland Agfa film saw me developing around 11 minutes in Rodinal 1+50 and it looked good despite the dark film base. Very scannable but I was doubtful it would wet print.


I went on to try and wet print a negative with my AC707 enlarger with a colour head but the results were absolutely horrible and nearly impossible to focus the negative on the board in the first place.

There’s a dog in there somewhere …

Since I hadn’t used this enlarger before i ran a quick test using a frame made using HP5 Plus and it looked OK…

Anyway, the other day there I had ordered a C41 chemistry I hadn’t used before which had instead of a developer, blix and stabiliser just developer bleach and fixer pouches and I thought, why not give bleaching a go.

I’m well aware that bleach would wipe a black and white developed negative whether colour or not but I was willing to give it a try regardless just to try and clear the base.

If you haven’t realised already, I’m bleaching already developed and fixed negatives and NOT bleaching during the developing process.

I ran a few tests and it was fine as long as you limited the bleaching to around 20 seconds, the base gets cleared but the image stays firm.


Wet Print
I stupidly tried to print grade 5 on the first test strip but I quickly realised I should just use white light because of the reddish base so I reset everything to 0 and tried again …


I exposed for 15 seconds at ƒ4, wide open for the Schneider Kreuznach 80mm Componon-S lens I’m using, and it looked quite good and not too contrasty.


Anyway, this was just a first run and I’m pretty sure I’ll be doing this again especially since I’ve got 14 rolls left from that bag.

I forgot to mention I’d also pushed the Agfa film to 400 by developing it for 16 minutes … I’ll probably give 800 a go some day.

Bye for now.



12 thoughts on “Black and White Colour

    1. Thanks Tim I’m glad it worked, it’s a bit scary dumping a roll into something so dangerous but they do scan better as well as being able to wet print.

      The Agfa VistaColor 200 film can be pushed quite far too so if you see that around and it’s cheap I recommend getting some for colour or B&W.

      Liked by 1 person

        1. At first I would wait to let them dry but one day I got restless, likely had loads of rolls on at one time, and just bleached or BLIX’d it after a brief post-fix wash and the results were the same.

          I would imagine that some of the silver will be washed away in the process but if you’re careful it should be OK. I often dunk them in the BLIX for a few seconds, give it a swirl, then take them out to drip off the excess BLIX then wash thoroughly. I repeat a few times until I can see through the negative without needing to hold the neg up to direct light; if you leave a negative in too long the image fades to a ghostly image. :E

          Liked by 1 person

        1. Yup! Everything in Poundland is exactly £1 so I went in and bout £15 worth if film. Developed in colour chemistry it looks just fine too; Agfa branded but possibly from a Kodak stock but I’m not certain.


    1. You should have a look for C41 bleach, you can buy it as a single pouch from but P&P could be pricey around £7. It might be worth combining a few things to make the not out if the order/delivery.

      I imagine your Uni uses an Ilford developer so it might take a few try’s to get the right development times but over developing is better than under that’s for sure.


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