How to (actually) Underexpose 3200ASA Film/Other News

Most normal people will struggle to underexpose 3200ASA emulsions because they are so light sensitive, even Scotland during the day shouldn’t be dull enough to fail it, but I have managed.

I used the now legendary Bencini Koroll 2, an Italian camera perhaps made in Milan. I say legendary because virtually every frame I’ve taken with this camera has been warped in some manner. Just look at my Koroll 2’s Flickr set for proof if needed.

The reason I chose to put 3200ASA film in this camera was because it had such a slow lens at f9 (SS: Bulb, 1/50 and 1/100) and I thought this film would make shooting with this camera easier in a non Italiany country. I was somehow wrong.

I did develop this roll the exact same way I did the 400ASA HP5Plus by developing in stock ID11 at 20º for 7 minutes 30 seconds fixing for 5 minutes with Rapid Fixer (1+4) also at 20º.

Maybe I should have looked up the specific timings for that film, it could’ve helped.

**EDIT, 13 December 2011**
Yes, it would’ve helped as James points out in the comments below, I actually managed to under-develop the negatives.
**EDIT, 13 December 2011**

Anyway, here’s the rest:

So the answer to the question “How do you underexpose 3200ASA film?”
Simply, shoot in tragically dull places with a Bencini Koroll 2 and then under-develop them.”

In Other News

This afternoon I dropped off film at a nearby developing house:
– 2 rolls of Fujifilm Superia 400ASA, 24 Exp.
– 1 roll of Lomoography’s C-41 film, 36 Exp.
– 1 roll of Kodak Ektachrome 100Plus E6 colour reversal film to be cross processed in C-41
– 1 roll of Kodak Ektachrome 160T E6 colour reversal film to processed as slides.

104 images if all goes well (equivalent to a quiet night in with the GF1), pickup is this Wednesday afternoon.

I’m quite looking forward to it.


3 thoughts on “How to (actually) Underexpose 3200ASA Film/Other News

  1. Interesting results! Are you sure these aren’t undeveloped rather than underexposed? Outdoors at ISO 3200, f/9 and 1/50s or 1/100s, even on a dull day the exposure should have been fine (more likely overexposed if you didn’t stop down).

    According to the massive dev chart, Delta 3200 Pro shot at 3200 should be developed for 10.5 minutes whilst HP5+ at ISO 400 should be developed for 7.5 minutes (both at stock dilution). This makes me wonder if you underdeveloped this roll if you developed for only 7.5 minutes!?

    They look dark and moody, which is kinda cool though! :-)


    1. Yup, that makes a whole lot of sense then. I think I was so used to developing different kinds of film I got confused, I’m so used to one set of timings with C-41 that seemed to suit all. I need to plan more with B&W developing and not be so bosh bosh.



      1. I should have added the caveat that this is coming from someone who has never even developed a film before!! And I have the benefit of hindsight too… :-)

        I can’t wait to get started though. I just. Need. To. Find. The. Time!


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